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Sid Neigum F/W 2016

Toronto fashion week in focus.

Hot off his London Fashion Week debut in February, Alberta-born, Toronto-based designer Sid Neigum returned to Canadian soil to present his fall/winter 2016 collection at World Master Card Fashion Week at David Pecaut Square on Monday, March 14. Rather than hosting a traditional runway show, Neigum opted for an intimate presentation that allowed guests to get up close and personal with his newest pieces.

With a DJ spinning ambient tracks, 10 models stood on podiums while a conceptual film playing in the background explored themes of texture, fluidity, and rawness. The result was an intentionally museum-esque feel, one which Neigum sought to recreate after debuting a similar style of presentation in London, preferring the social atmosphere it encouraged to that of a typical runway show.

“[My presentation style in London] inspired me to do it the same way over here. I was able to have conversations with people and talk about my inspirations and fabrics rather than just hide in the back and have my collection come out,” says Neigum.

The designer’s favourite textiles to work with this season were metal core fabrics, including a leather-like material comprised of metal coated in polyurethane. Another fabric in a copper hue was a mix of cotton, metal and tree fibre, which Neigum says reminded him of paper in the way that it folded and crinkled, and added texture to his signature draping garments.

A self-described “science nerd,” the designer is known to draw upon his background in geometry and mathematics when crafting collections. This season, he used the Golden Ratio as his main source of inspiration, applying the formula to the construction of his pieces.

“I found it fascinating that the Golden Ratio is common in nature and in human proportions, so I wanted to incorporate it into clothing as well,” he says. “The focus on proportions is highlighted by the contrasting bindings in black and white.”

The black and white contrast was reflected in the make-up, which featured double-winged eyeliner and semi-matte skin. “When I looked at his clothing, I noticed there were a lot of stark lines so I suggested black and white. He’s all about clean lines,” says Grace Lee, Maybelline New York Canada’s lead make-up artist. The slick top knots Redken’s lead hair stylist Jorge Joao created lent the models a samurai ferocity.

Neigum has received accolades as an emerging designer; he is a recent recipient of the DHL’s Exported Program distinction, which has afforded him the coveted opportunity to show his fall 2016 and spring 2017 collections in an international fashion capital.

“I chose London specifically because I thought it was a good market for emerging brands. There are a lot of Canadian designers who have made the move to London such as Erdem, Thomas Tait, Mark Fast, and Jean-Pierre Braganza,” says Neigum.

While Canada will undoubtedly be cheering on Neigum’s future ventures across the pond, it’s his return to Toronto Fashion Week that keeps hearts pumping with national pride. Whether it’s a novel presentation or the perfect black dress, we can always count on Sid the kid to refresh the runway.