What Kind of Moisturizers Does Oily Skin Need?

Sulwhasoo

If you have oily skin, it might feel counterintuitive to apply moisturizer to it. Actually, all skin needs moisture, it’s just that some products feel and work better for different skin types.

Oily skin is caused by the overproduction of sebum, which can be genetic, hormonal, or environmental. According to dermatologist Dr. Shannon Humphrey, when it’s hot outside, the sebum can flow more freely. Dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett says you can also get increased production of oil in the summer. Oiliness can also be exacerbated by the products you use—harsh cleansers, too many acids, or zero moisturizer can cause your skin to panic and start producing even more sebum.

What kind of moisturizers should you go for, in that case? There’s been a lot of discussion in recent years of emulsions. What beauty brands mean by that is a lighter moisturizer, but it’s not a very helpful term scientifically.

“Emulsion is a technical term. It generally refers to the fact that if you take two ingredients that are not miscible with each other—water and oil for example—in order to get them to mix, you need an emulsifying agent, and that’s what creates the emulsion,” says cosmetic chemist and product development consultant Ramya Viswanathan.

Most moisturizers are actually emulsions, including creams and lotions—almost everything except oils and ointments, which are water-free, and serums, which typically don’t have oil. The difference is typically in the ratio of water to oil in the emulsion. Viswanathan says a lighter emulsion will have more water and therefore might feel fresher on skin, as if skin were getting a drink.

How do you know if your skin is well hydrated? If it’s red and flaking or feels tight and uncomfortable, it’s probably thirsty. Sensation is important in choosing moisturizer too. If you have oily skin to start with, you likely don’t want to add any more oil or products that feel heavy. Kellett recommends gel moisturizers, which are the lightest  emulsions. “You can also replace moisturizer with serum if that feels nice.” Sunscreens are typically quite heavy, so she suggests sprays, which are often alcohol-based and can be used on both face and body.

As we tumble toward the winter months, does skin actually change, or is it just that we gravitate toward lighter products when it’s hot out and heavier ones when it’s cold?  Kellett says it can. “What happens in winter is that you get an increase in wind and cold and that leads to an increase in transepidermal water loss [evaporation of water from the skin], which can contribute to eczema and dermatitis.” If your skin starts to feel dry and tight even with the serum or gel you’ve used all summer, just change to a heavier cream or oil that can help restore your barrier layer. For some people with oily skin, though, a light lotion will do all year round.

Looking for something to see you through the last of the summer? Here are 6 moisturizers to try.

Caudalie VinoHydra Gel Moisturizer

This lightweight moisturizer has hyaluronic acid for extra hydration, plus organic aloe vera and grape water, and is absorbed quickly, leaving skin dewy. The vegan gel is part of a new range from the French brand, which also includes a deep hydration cream and soothing sorbet.

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Clarins Hydra-Essential Emulsion

With a serum-like texture, skin feels immediately hydrated and comfortable, thanks to a combination of rose water, leaf of life (a plant that supposedly boosts skin’s ability to hydrate itself), and hyaluronic acid.

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Embryolisse Radiant Complexion Cream

A gel-cream texture makes this light, hyaluronic acid gives hydration, and red pigments give skin a golden glow—like you’ve spent the day in the sun.

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Marcelle Clari-T Skin Balancing Gel

If your skin is prone to blemishes, this moisturizer has a trio of ingredients to address them. Salicylic acid exfoliates and reduces sebum, niacinamide calms redness, and bakuchiol improves skin texture. There’s also hyaluronic acid for hydration.

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Skinbetterscience Hydration Boosting Cream

A combination of ceramides and lipids help repair the skin’s moisture barrier, while this extremely lightweight cream is absorbed in seconds, leaving the skin feeling comfortable and well hydrated.

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Sulwhasoo Essential Comfort Balancing Emulsion

This contains the brand’s Jaum Moisturizing Complex (a combination of botanical ingredients that are said to relieve discomfort and strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier) plus narcissus bulb extract for added glow.

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