The Magic of Tofino in Summer
Sand and surf.
Wickaninnish Inn
Tofino is world-renowned as a storm-watching destination, when the winter months bring heavy rains, strong winds, and epic waves to Vancouver Island’s wild and rugged west coast. But this tiny surf town is an equally worthy destination in the summertime, when the sunlight breaks through towering green trees in the forest, and the sun sets late along the idyllic sandy beaches that stretch off into the distance.
Getting here is half the fun, with a trip from Vancouver requiring a two-hour ferry and a three-hour drive along a winding, tree-lined highway. Upon arrival, Tofino’s charms are immediately felt: there is a calm that is almost intoxicating. It’s nearly impossible not to slow down, to breathe deeper, to let city stresses be pulled away with the undertow of the Pacific.
There is no greater setting for this than the Wickaninnish Inn, a Relais & Châteaux property on iconic Chesterman Beach. The Wick, as locals call it, has been synonymous with the pinnacle of Vancouver Island hospitality since it opened its doors in 1996. With rustic, understated elegance, the Wick excels not only in its service, which is warm and welcoming without being overbearing, but also in its design, which wholly and unapologetically celebrates its surroundings.
Wood is central to the aesthetic, with exquisite pieces created by master carver Henry Nolla and driftwood furniture crafted by visual artist Maxwell Newhouse dotting the property. Then there are the views of the beach below, which are jaw-dropping, whether from individual guest rooms (which have floor-to-ceiling windows) or the hotel’s restaurant The Pointe (which dramatically juts out over the beach’s rocky edge).
The Pointe is a must-visit for hotel guests and locals alike, with executive chef Clayton Fontaine masterfully playing with fresh, local ingredients. Albacore tuna crudo might come with cucumber, orange, and sea buckthorn, while poached halibut could be served with fregola and summer squash. It’s an exploration of Tofino’s terroir, delivered elegantly on the plate as the seasons change.
Other excellent dining experiences can be found in town, where long-time staples like Wolf in the Fog (yes, the seaweed salad is that good) and Shelter (the Surf Bowl is always the right choice) have paved the way for newer ventures to take root.
There is also Jeju, a Korean restaurant run by a husband-and-wife team, with the former’s mother helping out in the kitchen. The menu, as a result, is a mix of traditional Korean dishes and more contemporary ones. Don’t miss the scallop crudo with yuzu vinaigrette and marinated kelp, which is fresh and vibrant. The Charcoal Bossam is also a highlight, with tender pork belly served with tangy arugula salad, pickled radish, ssamjang (a spicy Korean dipping sauce), and kimchi, all beautifully presented on a large board that is delivered to the table.
Ombre
Or there’s Ombre, a Mediterranean restaurant with plenty to boast about, including a memorable savoury madeleine topped with foie gras and raspberry, and roasted carrots with labneh and puffed amaranth. The room itself is beautiful, with cool wood tones and plenty of natural light giving the space a relaxed, airy feel.
For lighter, more casual fare, Toki Doki is a food trailer that is permanently parked outside Tofino Brewing and which serves excellent Japanese snack food. The okonomiyaki (a savoury Japanese pancake) is an easy favourite—it’s the perfect post-surf fuel for those who brave the Pacific’s waters.
Tofino is, after all, considered the surfing capital of Canada, with the ocean crashing along the shore providing the perfect practice ground for novices and professionals alike (Sanoa Dempfle-Olin, who represented Team Canada in surfing at the 2024 Paris Olympics, is one of many professional surfers from the area). For those who are looking to learn, Surf Sister offers accessible, friendly, and downright fun lessons that allow participants to go at their own pace. And yes, wetsuits are provided.
Photo by Marcus Paladino
Speaking of pace, for something slower and more forgiving than surfing, Tofino’s location in Clayoquot Sound means it has ample opportunities for long walks and hikes. From Chesterman to Cox Bay, the area’s beaches are not only surfing hot spots, they are also idyllic walking paths, with the sounds of splashing dogs and happy children mixing with the soothing lull of the waves. The Pacific Rim National Park Reserve has nine official trails, allowing wanderers to immerse themselves in its ancient cedar forests.
After all, the best part of any summer trip to Tofino is the time spent outside, in sand, soil, or surf. Nature is the beating heart of this place, allowing visitors simply to be.
