The Ancestor Cafe Opens in Fort Langley
Following the success of food van Tradish, chef Sarah Meconse Mierau, member of the Sayisi Dene First Nation, has moved into a bricks-and-mortar (or more accurately, mortise-and-tenon) location in the former depot of historic Fort Langley.
The Ancestor Cafe, which opened February 29, is an extension of Sarah Meconse Mierau’s mission to provide Indigenous food to city-dwelling Indigenous and non-Indigenous customers, while supporting Indigenous food sovereignty.
The food in this instance is more than just sustenance. The Ancestor Cafe is championing plant medicine by ensuring the dishes contain beneficial ingredients such as juniper, chamomile, dandelion, and sage. The hot menu is a showcase for Indigenous cuisine, featuring elk bannock tacos and lemonade flavoured with lavender, blackberry sage, and chamomile pear, as well as sweet baked goods.
“The Ancestor Cafe is a welcoming environment where Indigenous cuisine is readily available to everyone. Our goal is to nurture a deeper appreciation for Indigenous culture through culinary experiences and provide visitors with an opportunity to learn about Indigenous ingredients and our dishes,” Sarah Meconse Mierau says.
The sense of community she is looking for at The Ancestor Café extends to the kitchen, where her 17-year-old son, Anthony, will be the lead cook, and to the staff, which will provide opportunities for Indigenous youth in the culinary industry.
At the grand opening of the café, this ambition was clear, with a large gathering including many friends and family, as well as loyal customers from the preexisting food truck there to celebrate. The walls of the space were adorned with artwork by James Groening, a Cree painter from the Kahkewistahaw First Nation who is now based in Burnaby and working in the woodland art style.