Coming off its 100-year anniversary, expectations for Fendi’s spring/summer collection were understandably high. The brand has just spent a year celebrating its legacy: Roman heritage, the Peekaboo and Baguette icons, and a century of balancing functionality with flair.

So when Silva Venturini Fendi, artistic director, sent out a kaleidoscope of stuffed flowers, pixelated prints, tinsel-lined handbags, and a riot of colour—bubblegum pink, bright turquoise, deep reds, fiery coral, sunshine yellow, and softer neutrals—for spring/summer 2026, the tone felt, at times, at odds with the moment. To be clear: this wasn’t a bad collection. On the contrary, it was technically strong, joyfully styled, and full of meticulous craftsmanship. The floral motifs were inventive, the leather work superb, and the casting refreshingly inclusive. It showed that Venturini Fendi is unafraid to be playful and vibrant. But for a house just entering its second century, the question becomes: what statement are you making now?

This Fendi offering felt more whimsical than declarative. Rather than charting a clear path forward, SS26 seemed like a delightful detour: pretty, fun, but perhaps not grounded in the deeper heritage just celebrated. The silhouettes leaned soft and wearable but also a bit safe. The fantastical elements—sequins and tinsel inside bags, plush flower appliqués—risked veering into novelty. And perhaps that’s the point; after a year of heavy retrospection, the intent was not to continue gazing backward. Maybe the bold colour and softness were a way of saying, “We’ve earned the right to play.” And play Silvia did.

After 100 years, it’s not just about showing what Fendi can do—it’s about showing who Fendi will become.

Since this article has been published, Silva Venturini Fendi has stepped down as creative director. No new creative director has been named.

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