Chef Angus An cooks in such a way that transcends the rigidity of traditional dishes, embracing the bounty of local Canadian ingredients and fluidly interpreting them in a progressive Thai context.

The first clue is often a subtle aroma, a heady mix of cooked meat and charcoal wafting on an otherwise fresh breeze. The scent triggers a primal hunger, and suddenly you notice a haze of smoke rising nearby.

Chef David Thompson has been dubbed the best Thai chef in the world, which is not a bad accolade for the Aussie, a non-Thai cooking in a culture that reveres what it eats. As he explains, “In England, they care for literature, homes, gardens, and dogs. In Germany, it’s music. In Thailand, it’s their stomach and their soul.”