Escape to Gili Lankanfushi in the Maldives to Live Out Your Castaway Island Dreams
Pioneering sustainable tourism.
Parrotfish poop formed the Maldives. Sensational? Yes. Fact? Also yes, and one that the marine biologists at Gili Lankanfushi deliver to a chuckling group of vacationers partaking in the pre-snorkel briefing. The science, they explain, is that the fish eat the coral and grind up the calcium carbonate (reef material made of coral skeletons), which they then excrete as sand. Over hundreds of years, parrotfish have generated upwards of 80 per cent of the sand that builds up the reefs in the Maldives.
A 20-minute speedboat ride from the Malé Valena airport, Gili Lankanfushi is a dreamy getaway where colourful fish and friendly reef sharks school in the shallows of the lagoon, and manta rays and turtles can be seen from jetties, swimming beneath a series of thatched overwater villas. Gili not only looks like the setting from Robinson Crusoe but also echoes the deserted island philosophy. The ethos “no news, no shoes” sets the laidback vibe for this luxury resort that operates in its own time zone: Gili time is one hour ahead of Malé to make the most of those glorious sunsets.
When you arrive on the island, your Mr. Friday will greet you and give you a lay of the land before ushering you to your villa. Named after Crusoe’s loyal assistant and dear companion, Mr. Fridays are Gili Lankanfushi’s butlers, and nothing is too much trouble. On call any time of day, Mr. Fridays will ensure your experience at Gili is your own way. No matter what you need or don’t even know you need, your dedicated Mr. Friday is on hand.
The Maldives are known to attract honeymooners, but even though Gili Lankanfushi is the type of place where the newly married, solo travellers, groups, and multigenerational families coexist, the island feels like you have it all to yourself. The clever layout of the villas promises privacy, with each framing views that stretch out and across the Indian Ocean. For those in search of seclusion, there are seven Crusoe Villas that stand alone in the pristine waters—the only access is by rowboat or pontoon. To revel in the aquatic beauty of the Maldives in a world all your own, the Private Reserve is the largest standalone overwater villa in the world; the only neighbours are the ones in the reef below. The Reserve—at 18,000 square feet—has the traditional thatched roof and houses multiple bedrooms, a cinema, kitchen, spa, gym, infinity pool, sprawling sundecks, and even a waterslide into the ocean. As lavish as this villa is, it is all about living in Maldivian serenity.
Gili’s relaxed nature is captured in the villas, a mix of indoor/outdoor living that is a wonderful fusion of weathered and ritz. Light switches and air conditioning units are encased in plantation teak, and the motorized TV is hidden in a carved wooden box. Ceilings are lined with folded palm fronds, and sundeck railings are pieces of driftwood. An inviting soaker tub makes for royal-box-worthy viewing of the trademark tones in the water, and a wooden bridge connects the bathroom to an outdoor shower. The real show is nature itself, captured through the floor-to-ceiling windows or, in places, a dramatic glass floor, to see all colours of marine life. The entire resort was built with sustainability in mind—villas and jetties are supported by recycled telegraph poles—leaving guests feeling closer to nature than they may have anticipated.
Gili Lankanfushi genuinely cares about the natural habitat. The resort is a pioneer of sustainable tourism in the Maldives, a country at the forefront of the battle against environmental degradation due to climate change. Coral reef restoration is ongoing work, with Gili marine biologists nursing fragments of coral on ropes for three years before transplanting them back into the reef.
Eating at Gili is an event unto itself. The breakfast spread is magnificent: pastries, yogurts, a choice of 12 homemade jams, chocolates, sushi made with fish caught on the reef, deli meats and cheeses, cereals in coconut shells, nuts and seeds displayed in an apothecary cabinet, and a dedicated breakfast butler to cut and peel from a huge selection of exotic fruits. “When it comes to food, I talk crazy,” says executive chef Harinath Govindaraj, who after 17 years is a Gili island treasure. Chef Hari, as he is affectionately called, has an innovative approach to cooking, overseeing all the menus at the various restaurants on the property. “Cooking,” he says, “is not just about filling the stomach,” and watching him in his element confirms this sentiment.
The culinary journeys at Gili are plentiful and varied. There is the Asian Street Food Market on the beach, Passage Through India Tandori Experience, Brazilian Churrascaria, Teppanyaki and Japanese fare at By The Sea restaurant, but it is chef Hari’s plant-based menus that really shine. “I am Indian—we know vegetables,” he says, but that downplays his talent. Cooking consumes him. After the kitchen closes at the end of service, chef Hari returns to make his own toothpaste and test out the recipes he has in his head. “It’s kind of fun talking to the herbs, talking to the spices, talking to the vegetables,” he says, of when alone in the kitchen at 2h00 or 3h00. “I want to make 2,000 vegan recipes,” he says of this self-imposed challenge.
The Chef’s Table Vegan Indulgence experience will impress even skeptics. In Gili Garden, the vegetable garden on the island, which services the resort kitchen, chef Hari creates gastronomic greatness: aloe vera tempura, aloe vera and coconut ceviche, barley risotto with shiitake mushroom and white radish scallop, eggplant steak with cauliflower couscous, and a no-bake almond flour cake with coconut, mango, and avocado that will leave you full and guilt-free. Chef is forthcoming with his recipes, created with the home cook in mind. As he says, “If I keep my recipe, it will die with me. When I give the recipe to my guests, it will live forever.” Gili Lankanfushi has many repeat guests, but those in search of vegan dining have made Gili their second home, with one couple visiting monthly.
Getting around Gili means pedalling bamboo bikes (pedals have covers—no shoes, remember?), and during the day, guests tend to keep to their own adventures. Early risers awake for sunrise yoga, and naturally, there’s incredible snorkelling, diving, sailing, and surfing—a partnership with Australian-based Tropicsurf will have you (age seven or 70) riding the intermediate waves of Jailbreak, Honky’s, and Sultans a short boat ride away. Gym enthusiasts have a decked-out TechnoGym, with sneakers available upon request. At Meera Spa, the Thai and Indonesian massage therapists will personalize treatments that include, per Maldividan tradition, placing sandbags on ailing areas to benefit from the healing properties of magnesium from the sea. The spa menu also has an exhaustive list of treatments. By night, the island comes alive with myriad dining options, open-air cinema, and even billiards on the beach.
If Gili has a fault, it is the intermittent sound of float planes overhead. No matter, Gili Lankanfushi is a paradise, where you relish the feeling of sand between your toes and doing nothing counts for something.