We’d arrived, as my grandmother had, with dance shoes and multiple black-tie outfits in tow. We’d intended to start with just the basics: attending the daily morning group class, practicing a little every night. But the dance instructor had other plans.
There is a German word for longing: sehnsucht. It is a homesickness for a country you have never visited, a love for somebody you’ve never met. It is a yearning without an object, and so without an end.
For those willing to leave behind their traditional notions of “good” Italian food and embrace the brackish, complex flavours of the city’s lagoon, Venice offers one of the richest and most varied culinary scenes in Italy.
Yerevan may not be immediately glamorous, but its ramshackle charm keeps the people who fall in love here coming back.
It is the sense of slippage—between languages, between cultures, between worlds—that has kept me going back to the region almost annually for years.
The real draw of Bemelmans isn’t the drinks, or the varied bar snacks, or even the intricate murals patterning all the walls—it’s the people.