“I’ve always preferred to be out in front of the pack, not behind it,” explains chef Rod Butters about his habit of reinventing himself whenever he seems to be at the top of his game. Each incarnation is a radical departure from the last.

Once upon a time, tomatoes were prized for their flavour. Lumpy and irregular contours were overlooked in favour of sweetness, tanginess, saltiness, earthiness and that oh-so-indescribable tomato essence.