St. Boniface Is a Slice of France on the Prairies

Photo by Kristhine Guerrero

It’s a cold, crisp January morning, and the line at Le Croissant snakes out the door on to Taché Avenue. Inside, the room is warm and inviting, sunlight filtering in from the front windows, the smell of fresh bread and coffee welcoming newcomers as they shrug off their parkas and wool hats. Folks linger, chatting at communal tables, hands cupped around warm mugs. It’s exactly what you imagine a neighbourhood bakery should be.

Le Croissant specializes in naturally leavened sourdough bread—the classic plain loaf is the most popular—along with variations like raisin-apricot and jalapeño-cheddar. But it’s also very much a patisserie in the most indulgent sense. On my visits, I’ve worked my way through a holiday-themed raspberry-pistachio croissant, a savoury mini tourtière, and a decadent grilled ratatouille sandwich. I’ve also left with focaccia— tomato, mozzarella, finished with a pesto oil drizzle—tucked under my arm for later. I’m advised the melon tart is to die for.

On one visit, good fortune had me share a table with artist Terisa Taylor, who lives a block away and stops in daily for a cappuccino. After spending much of her early life on a remote farm in Manitoba’s Swan Valley, she savours the energy at Le Croissant. “I like being around people,” she says. “The staff are very sweet, the food is great—and I meet so many people. It’s such a wonderful place.”

That sense of connection is what defines St. Boniface. This historic neighbourhood on the eastern bank of the Red River is the heart of Franco-Métis culture in Western Canada and one of Winnipeg’s most interesting and unusual places to explore.

Photo by Tyler Walsh for Tourism Winnipeg

Founded in 1818 with the arrival of a Roman Catholic mission led by Bishop Joseph-Norbert Provencher, St. Boniface became a centre for the colony’s French Canadian and Métis residents. Before European settlement, Indigenous peoples had lived in the region for thousands of years, and the area was part of historical Ojibwe territory. Over time, the Métis—a distinct people of mixed Indigenous and European heritage—became central to the community’s identity. St. Boniface is also the birthplace of Louis Riel, the Métis leader whose actions helped shape Manitoba’s founding and whose legacy remains influential today.

One of the most enjoyable ways to arrive is by crossing the Esplanade Riel, which links downtown Winnipeg and The Forks National Historic Site with St. Boniface. Designed by renowned Manitoba architect Étienne Gaboury, the pedestrian- and cyclist-friendly bridge takes just a few minutes to cross, offering sweeping views of the Red River and city skyline.

Food, naturally, plays a prominent role in the area. Just a few doors down from Le Croissant is Thyme Café and Books, a local favourite where shelves of well-worn books line the walls and guests take their time over coffee and light meals. Up the street, Nola has become one of St. Boniface’s most celebrated contemporary restaurants, known for chef Emily Butcher’s inventive, Pacific Northwest–inspired share plates. Beautifully presented, seasonal small dishes—including thoughtful vegetarian and vegan options—have earned the restaurant national recognition.

For a more traditional French experience, Resto Gare Bistro is a Saint Boniface institution. Housed in a former railway station, the restaurant’s dining room extends into a restored train car—a setting that’s as memorable as the food. Classic French onion soup is a must, as is the chateaubriand for two, along with dishes like boeuf bourguignon, escargots, and tourtière.

Saint Boniface’s cultural attractions are equally compelling. Le Musée de Saint-Boniface Museum, housed in a former Grey Nuns convent built in 1844—the oldest remaining structure in Winnipeg—explores the region’s francophone and Métis heritage and features a permanent exhibit about Louis Riel. The museum is currently closed for major renovations and is expected to reopen in summer 2026, a fitting milestone as the building celebrates its 175th anniversary later in the year. A bronze bust of Riel sits on the museum’s front lawn.

Photo by Tyler Walsh for Tourism Winnipeg

A short walk away are the evocative ruins of Saint-Boniface Cathedral. The original basilica, built in 1908, was largely destroyed by fire in 1968. A modern replacement was constructed within the surviving façade, creating a striking juxtaposition of old stone and contemporary design. Wandering the grounds at night, when the ruins are softly lit, is a memorable experience.

St. Boniface is also home to Festival du Voyageur, a beloved winter tradition and one of Winnipeg’s signature cultural events. Held each February, the 10-day event celebrates French Canadian and Métis culture through music, food, storytelling, and winter traditions. Snow sculptures line the grounds, fiddles and folk songs fill heated tents, and the neighbourhood pulses with a spirit of joie de vivre that draws visitors from across the country.

For those who prefer to explore on two wheels or on foot, the Gabrielle Roy Route follows the banks of the Seine River, winding through trees and parkland. The crushed-gravel path also leads to the Gabrielle Roy House, where visitors can tour the childhood home of the celebrated author.

One of the most peaceful spots in Winnipeg can also be found in Saint Boniface. Tucked into the northeast corner of Whittier Park is a quiet riverside path that leads to one of the city’s prettiest settings—the point where the 26-kilometre Seine River completes its journey and empties into the Red River. Locals can often be seen fishing from the banks, sitting with a book, or simply taking in the view. It’s an idyllic place, and a welcome pause on my own bike rides around town.

Photo by Kristhine Guerrero

And for even more views, it’s hard to beat Promenade Taché. This riverside walkway offers sweeping perspectives of Winnipeg’s skyline, along with interpretive plaques detailing the development of St. Boniface. It’s a reminder that this neighbourhood isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place where history and culture are woven into daily life.

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