Does Everyone Have Sensitive Skin Now?

Up to 70 per cent of people now self-identify as having sensitive skin, and that’s increased significantly in the last two decades. What’s occurring? “I think there are two things happening at once,” says Dr. Julia Carroll, a Toronto dermatologist. “First, more people are aware of their skin now and are more comfortable using the language of ‘sensitive skin’ to describe symptoms like stinging, burning, redness, tightness, or itching. That awareness is a good thing. But I also think we are seeing more sensitized skin, and that is slightly different.”

Carroll explains that some people have a tendency toward sensitive skin—they experience symptoms like itchiness or stinging in situations where others wouldn’t. People with eczema, rosacea, or a naturally fragile skin barrier (the protective wall of the skin, made from dead cells stuck together with lipids) fall into this category.

“Sensitized skin, on the other hand, is skin that has become reactive because something has disrupted the barrier. That might be overcleansing, using too many active ingredients, frequent exfoliation, harsh weather, pollution, stress, poor sleep, indoor heating, or layering too many products at once,” she says.

In other words, some of the things we are doing to improve our skin’s appearance may actually be harming it. Carroll particularly pinpoints overuse of active ingredients like retinoids, acids, scrubs, benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C, and “multistep routines layered together without much strategy.”

There’s also a perception that if a product makes your skin tingle, it’s more effective, but in fact, that’s often a sign that the skin is irritated, not that something is working. What should people who are experiencing sensitivity do? First, simplify. “Use a gentle cleanser, a barrier-supporting moisturizer, and daily sunscreen,” Carroll says. “Ingredients that can be helpful include ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, petrolatum, squalane, and colloidal oatmeal. These ingredients support hydration and barrier function.”

Be cautious with fragrance, essential oils, scrubs, and too many actives all at once, and if you’re going to introduce new products or ingredients, do so slowly, one by one: for example, a retinoid once a week, over moisturizer, then gradually more often if your skin can tolerate it.

“It is time to see a doctor or dermatologist if the sensitivity is persistent, worsening, associated with a rash, swelling, cracking, bleeding, pain, or if you cannot tolerate basic skin care,” Carroll says. “It is also worth being assessed if you suspect rosacea, eczema, acne, or an allergy. Sensitive skin is common, but that does not mean people should have to live with daily burning or discomfort.”

Looking to establish a baseline skin-care regimen for your sensitive skin? Here are some products that should be tolerable for most people.

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CeraVe Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser

Some cleansers can strip skin of moisture and damage the barrier. This cleanser replenishes ceramides (a component of the barrier) and will remove makeup, sunscreen, dirt, and impurities.

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Curél Anti-Wrinkle Hydrating Serum

A lightweight, fragrance-free serum, this has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory ginger root extract, as well as ceramides for barrier repair.

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Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

Azelaic acid is a tried-and-tested ingredient for diminishing some of the symptoms of rosacea and redness. This also has hyaluronic acid for moisturizing and centella asiatica extract, commonly used for soothing skin.

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Jouviance Restructiv 3D-Retinol+

The retinol in this moisturizer is encapsulated, which means it is released into skin more slowly and is therefore better tolerated by people with sensitive skin. The formulation also has antiwrinkle peptides, and bakuchiol, a natural ingredient that works in a similar way to retinol. For moisturizing, there’s shea butter, soothing vitamin E, and vitamin C-rich jojoba.

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Aestura Atobarrier365 Hydro Soothing Cream

This moisturizer is for those who prefer lighter textures in summer. It has ceramides and hyaluronic acid for barrier repair, and those ceramides are encapsulated for slow and gradual release into skin.

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Caudalie Vinosun Protect Daily Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 with Niacinamide

All skin needs sunscreen, but some varieties can be more irritating than others. Generally speaking, mineral sunscreens are better tolerated. This one has zinc oxide, which is itself anti-inflammatory, as its main UV-shielding ingredient, plus soothing niacinamide. Lightly tinted so it doesn’t leave a white cast, it provides a good base for makeup.

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