On the horizon, the brilliant blue sky, freckled with pillows of white, meets the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea. I am taking it all in on the balustrade terrace of this 18th-century villa, enjoying the solitude, the colours, and the atmosphere particular to this dramatic Italian island.
L’ambiente—atmosphere. That word describes the magic of Taverna la Cialoma, an eatery in the picturesque fishing village of Marzamemi, Sicily.
FROM THE ARCHIVE: Sicily is one of the few wine regions where you can explore grape varieties from A to Z. You can start with ansonica and end with zibibbo—the local name for muscat of Alexandria—and, along the way, taste indigenous varieties like catarratto and nero d’Avola, and international grapes as different as syrah and sauvignon blanc.