In the world of baking, panettone is a perplexity. It has produced a precipice of untold awe, anxiety, and failure in many pastry chefs attempting it.
Martyrdom, secret romance, minced mutton, and the bonfires of winter solstice—some of the world’s most beloved Christmas desserts have unexpected origins, indeed.
FROM THE ARCHIVE: Some of the sweetest days of my life have been spent in Milan’s grey winter. My concrete-block apartment offered a spectacular view over the nearby Alps and on a clear day the diamond peaks would reflect crystals of cerulean blue in the morning light.